Living there

Staying on in Tiruvannamalai

For the ones who arrive with a return ticket and quietly let it lapse. The practicalities of settling in for a season, or longer, at the foot of the hill.

Arunachala hill after rain, a rainbow arching over the sacred mountain at Tiruvannamalai

There is a particular thing that happens to a certain kind of visitor here: they come for three days and find, some weeks later, that they are still here, looking at long-stay rooms and working out how the visa runs. It is common enough that the town has a whole infrastructure for it ~ the guesthouses that rent by the month, the cafes where the same faces appear each morning, the noticeboards.

These pages are for that person. The honest cost of a month, how the visa question actually works, which neighbourhoods suit which temperament, and how to find your people without losing the solitude you probably came for.

The practicalities